Learning Arduino

One day recently while watching videos on Model Railroader Video Plus, I came across a four-part series on using Arduinos for things like layout sound effects and animated lighting. I had never heard of Arduinos before, and those are aspects of the hobby that have been on my mind because it’s something I can work on without already having a layout, and it’s something that I can spend time getting familiar with, so that I’m ready with some automation solutions when I do have the space for a layout.

As Wikipedia describes them, Arduinos are “single-board microcontrollers and microcontroller kits for building digital devices and interactive objects that can sense and control objects in the physical and digital world.” Arduino boards will enable me to create the kind of electronic circuits I’ve had in mind, without the need to create the logic out of just the right combination of resistors, capacitors, timer chips, diodes and other electronic components, most of which I have very little understanding of. When circuits like those don’t work as expected, my lack of knowledge of those things makes it very difficult to troubleshoot. Arduinos, however, use the C++ programming language and a special Arduino …

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Big Picture Plans

The one big question in my mind at the early stages of planning a model railroad is which railroad or railroads to model in my next layout. The answer to that question depends on the answers to three other questions.

  • What locations to model
  • What time period to model
  • What industries to model

In order to create a model of a time and place that is historically accurate, or at least plausible to a degree that I’m happy with, I have to select a combination of location, time period, industries, and railroad(s) that are at least historically plausible.

Locations

This question, for me, comes down to choosing between modeling the Northeast (PA, MD, WV, NY) or the Pacific Northwest (WA, OR, ID, MT). After spending my first 27 years in Pittsburgh, and the rest so far (14 and counting) in Seattle, I have an affinity for and familiarity with the scenery in those those two regions.

Time Period

Without question, there will be steam on my next layout. So, that ends the time period at about 1950-1956, depending on the railroad. I like the look of the early diesels, particularly F units, so I’m open to modeling the transition …

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Accumulating Supplies & Anticipation

Having read some books on weathering steam engines with paint and chalk, I was eager to get started on my practice models, one of which has already been stripped of its original paint, but I had no supplies yet. I have an airbrush and compressor that I received as a gift several years ago from my dad, but I had no paint or thinner. So I made a list of paint colors I’d need, based off of recommendations in Kalmbach’s books Steam Locomotives: Projects & Ideas and Basic Painting & Weathering for Model Railroaders, both of which suggested specific paint colors. Some of the suggested colors were from Polly Scale and Floquil paint lines, which have been discontinued, but I was able to identify close matches in Testors’ Model Master acrylic line using The Model Railroad Hobbyist’s Guide to Acrylic Painting in a Post-Floquil World.

My first shopping stop was Skyway Model Shop in Bryn-Mawr-Skyway, but they only had a few of the colors I was looking for, and the guy at the counter had a bit of an attitude when I asked if they could special order colors that weren’t on the shelf, denying the existence of

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Life-Like B&O 4-6-2 Pacific

After watching eBay for over a year for one of these in good condition at a reasonable price, I finally lucked out.

I took a new approach to bidding on this one. My old approach was the way eBay recommends, which is to determine the most you’re willing to pay, then bid that amount, and let their automatic bidding handle the rest. But that method favors sellers and eBay, not buyers (It jacks up the price as bidders fight all week long.). This time, I determined early on that I was willing to pay no more than about $70. But I didn’t bid on it until five seconds before the auction ended. I also didn’t add it to my Watch List. Auctions that have more bids and people watching tend to get more views, and potentially more bids, and I didn’t want to encourage that. The bidding gradually reached $28 over the week, and after I won, I could see that two others placed bids in the last eight seconds, but at $34.00 and $36.99, they were too low to beat my $72.37 max bid, and they didn’t have enough time to bid again, so I won it for $37.99. …

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Scratch-Built Signals

While building the 3-Light Signal Drivers on printed circuit boards (PCBs) I bought from Rob Paisley, it occurred to me that the resistors in the original circuit (which I had been using in my breadboard test circuits) aren’t necessarily of the rating that I’ll need for the signals that I’ll build. They were fine for the testing I was doing with some generic LEDs on a breadboard, but I think the LEDs on my signals will need to be a little less bright than that in order to look realistic. The circuit has separate resistors for each of the three LEDs in the signal (red, yellow and green), so I just assembled all parts of the circuits except for those three resistors. Once I know which LEDs I’ll use in the signals, I’ll be able to determine the appropriate resistors to use. This has prompted me to start some more serious planning for building signals.

While I had free trial access to the Model Railroader Digital Archive last year, I downloaded a PDF of an article they published in July 2006 about building your own signals from commercially available parts. I’m going to base my signals off of that plan, …

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AHM Norfolk & Western GP-18

I always had a fondness for the blue and gold color scheme of this model that my dad had. He also had some N&W coal hoppers to go along with it. I bought this particular model from eBay as something to practice weathering on. I realized once it arrived that some of the hand rails had been broken, and the bell was missing. The horn broke as I removed the model from the box for the first time, unaware that the cab roof was loose (it fell to the floor). There’s also a small scratch on the front, but otherwise, the model was in good shape.

Because the hand rails are part of the chassis, the only way to replace the railings is to replace the whole chassis. So I would occasionally check eBay for replacements, but never really saw one that was a good deal. At the 2017 Great Train show, however, I found a dummy with missing trucks that had the N&W’s bicentennial color scheme (pictured below). I just have to remove the shell and fuel tank to re-use its chassis, which is molded in the same blue as the powered unit with broken railings. Swapping that part …

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AHM Santa Fe GP-18

My dad had this particular model as part of a set that consisted of freight cars branded with Kellogg’s breakfast brands, such as corn flakes and Eggo waffles. Last winter, I found one of these locomotives on eBay, sold as “new in box”. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it really had never been used, but unfortunately, the cab roof was loose, the horn was partly broken upon arrival, and the bell had completely broken off. Fortunately, all of the delicate railings were still intact. I’ve seen this model sold with black trucks and silver trucks, but I think the one my dad had featured black trucks, like this one.

It ran well out of the box, but I still removed the old grease and re-lubricated it. One other small problem the model had was that the original grease had been applied very heavily, and at one point it had started to leak out of the gears, and some of it made its way to the outer shell. No damage was caused to the paint job, it it did require some cleaning.

This was purchased to use for weathering practice. I originally also planned to replace the horn hook …

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AHM Pennsylvania C-Liner

This was another model my dad had in the late 70s, but I have very little memory of it. Mostly I just remember seeing it loose in a large box of mixed items, and I don’t recall ever seeing it run. However, it stuck out in my mind because of its unique shape and color scheme. It was the only c-liner I knew at the time, and it was probably my first exposure to the Pennsylvania Railroad’s “Tuscan Red” color scheme with the five yellow stripes.

While browsing some used HO scale models at the 2017 Great Train Show, I found one of these in good condition for only $10.00. I bought it as yet another locomotive to practice weathering on, and I originally planned to replace the couplers with Kadee knuckle couplers, but later decided the cheap model wasn’t with that effort. I’m just going to list it on eBay after weathering, anyhow.

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AHM Birney Trolley

By a stroke of luck, this model of my dad’s somehow stayed with my own collection of trains when I moved out on my own after high school, and thus escaped the auction of many of my dad’s trains from his storage unit. Still, it has had a rough life. I have a clear memory from sometime in the early 80s of my dad, brother and me being surprised that it still worked after I was allowed to play with it for quite some time, off the tracks, as if it were a toy. I remember my dad or brother saying, “It’s a miracle!”, and then expressing my delight and surprise by repeating the phrase myself, over and over again. I was less than ten years old at the time. My memory of this model between that point and when I took my own collection with me is basically gone, but by that point, it had sustained damages on several parts:

  • Missing draw bar in back (for coupling multiple units)
  • Broken/missing draw bar pin on front
  • Missing trolley pole spring
  • Missing trolley pole retention post
  • Broken and glue-smeared window plastic
  • Damaged passenger silhouettes in windows
  • Cracked chassis
  • Missing headlight bulb

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Athearn Burlington Northern SD-9

My dad had one of these models in the late 70s, and it always seemed like a very good runner, with six pick-up and drive wheels on each truck, and a flywheel. Of all of the models in our house, this was the only one with a flywheel. Sometime in the late 80s or early 90s, something went wrong with this engine, possibly a short. It ran slowly and got too hot, eventually melting some of the plastic around the motor, rendering it useless. I later removed the gearing so that it could be pulled as a dummy, and I’m not sure what ever happened to it after that.

I found this same model, with upgraded details, at a good price on eBay last year. It runs just as well, or better, as the one my dad had. The previous owner, who had a B&N layout, had a friend of his add some details, including a new motor and flywheels, Kadee knuckle couplers, a flashing cab roof beacon, MU cables, a fuel tank breather pipe, painted hand rails, new number boards (white lettering on black background), and two parts that I can’t remember the name of (two things that on …

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